Thursday, March 5, 2009

Meet My Friend Reema

One of the most fascinating things about Pakistan is that even though it's an "Islamic Republic" and supposedly a very strict, fundamentalist religious state, there are still cross-dressers. Cross-dressers who walk around openly and beg people for money. They're called hijras and they knock on people's doors, go around to local business, and beg on the street collecting money. I first learned about hijras in a Religion & Gender class I took in college, which was fascinating on so many levels. They talked about it as an Indian thing, but as we all know, India and Pakistan share a lot of these cultural tidbits. I can't remember if they're bad luck and people are paying them to keep them away, or if they're good luck and people are paying them to acquire some kind of good luck for themselves. Reema is a beggar that came by the house the first time when I was in Pakistan. She's the first hijra I ever met. Ammi answered the door and then came back into the house to get some money for her, and when I heard there was a hijra at the door, I went out to see for myself. I asked Reema if I could take her picture and she said yes. 

After I left Pakistan, she would come by and ask about me even after I left, asking why her Bhajhi (meaning sister, which she called me) wasn't sending her jeans from Amreeka. My mother-in-law just laughed and said that Bhajhi (me) didn't know her sizes! And she replied that at the least, I should be sending her shampoo and nail polish! When Ammi came to visit us in America, I had this picture framed and had Ammi take it back for Reema. Last year, when I visited Karachi again, she came around begging again and let me take her picture again, too. 

25 comments:

jijibean said...

I also had experiences with hijras in Karachi. My In-laws and family are Hindus and they seem to play somewhat of a role in some wedding ceremonies. During our Haldi wali day one particular hijra came and danced for a while. They are seen (at least with my husband's family - I don't know if it is in general) as good luck for the bride and groom. They offer their blessings and are said to ward off "nazar" (the evil-eye). The other times I've been there "she" has come for other of my husbands' sibling's haldi ceremonies too. I think she comes offering blessings on other holidays as well. The family then gives money in return.

luckyfatima said...

Yes they are bad luck, and have the power to curse you if you do not give them alms, and bless you if they do...well, that's what is said about them.

I doubt that most of them are really intersexed/hermaphrodites (unless South Asia has an extremely disproportionate number of hermaphrodites born there) and these days the stories couldn't be true that they steal/buy normal boys, castrate them and raise them as hijray. I suspect that these days, joining the world of the hijra happens as it is an available social space for lower class transgendered males, and also lower class gay males who are not transgender but enjoy dressing as women and can earn from hijra style begging.

I have never heard anyone say anything hateful or homophobic about them despite the fact that generally Indo-Pak society is indeed homophobic. Most people believe that they are fated by God to be hermaphrodites and can't help it, and pity them.

I do find them fascinating as well, but I feel sorry for them. What a life.

Mrs. H said...

I could go on and on about this topic! I've never heard people refer to them as "hijra's" we say "kusra" I don't know if that is a Punjabi word though. My in-laws are from Rawalpindi and when my husband's mehendi ceremony two hijra's came by and danced the night away while everyone threw money at them. In our area in Rawalpindi there is this one hijra named Saima who used to come to our house. Because she knew there were girls from America living there, she always asked for a little extra money. My MIL used to always give her a nice suit and money. That's the thing about them, if they know you are from abroad they will ask for more money; at least from the area my mom is from. Over there they usually ask for triple than in the bigger citites. When my MIL died, Saima came to our house to give her condolences! She knew our family that well.

It is weird to see that hijra's are part of the "norm" in Pakistan when they claim to be super religious and against so many things haraam. I guess it is one of those if we ignore it, it will go away type of thing.

luckyfatima said...

Khusra is the Punjabi word for hijra.

Religiosity in Pakistan is complex and nothing is cut and dry. Hijray, pirs and faqeers, mazaar, sihr, and taweez and the rest are as much of the Pakistani religious tapestry as these more recent fundamentalist movements which condemn them.

Susan said...

I found the hijiras in Karachi fascinating too. My husband's family will not give them money or anything, they do a ceremony instead to take nazar off of someone if they think that it has been put there by a hijira or anyone else. My dh said he feels sorry for them if they are truly hijiras (I think by that he meant hermaphrodites or castrati), but not if they are just cross dressers and there is no way to tell if they are. I personally feel for them regardless, as they are no doubt living a very difficult life whatever their motivations.

shaghuftah@aol.com said...

Yah, that's the way I heard about it first--that hijray were hermaphrodies. Of course nobody's going to check and see if they have "all the parts"! I haven't met one yet, but I can't wait to be adopted by my own hijra!

khany said...

not all of them live such marginal lives. case in point: begum nawazish ali

Lazeena Umm Yusuf said...

That's crazyyy! I never heard of these people before. I grew up in a Paki community and whenever people came back from Pakistan I never heard about hijras in any of their bizarre Pakistan tales, I must inquire about them. I should have known, people like this are everywhere, but actually seeing one dressed up in Pakistani styled clothes is just crazyyyy to me! I just called my husband over to show him and he's so bothered by this LOL subhanAllah

Jman said...

I have just shamelessly used these pictures in my blog.

Please let me keep them :)

http://jjutol.blogspot.com/

luckyfatima said...

begum nawaazish isn't a hijra.

Cecily said...

Wow, that is so awesome! I love this story. I knew about the indian crossdressers, but didn't know they also had them in Pakistan. So interesting!

Neena said...
This comment has been removed by the author.
Neena said...

Begum Nawaazish Ali is just a character played by a talented male actor.

Kaylen said...

Very interesting! When I first saw the pics, I thought, that's a manly woman! :)

I love learning new things about other cultures - thanks for sharing this info!

M.J. said...

Oh wow.
Wow.

meow said...

Woah!

I hope you didn't call him/her (errr!) a hijra to his/her face. That wouldn't be nice.

In India they come to weddings (gate crash) and sing and you HAVE to pay them. It's believed if you don't pay them their bad wishes for you will come true. Or something like that.

Anonymous said...

I get scared of them when I go to Pak hehe! I know I shouldn't... we should sympathise upon them - they too have hearts :). I guess Hijras are supposed to nicer than female beggers and male beggers as they are a cross between both lol. But I too agree with luckyfatima... that not all are hermaphrodites. Actually most probably aren't. I wonder how can there be like zero hermaphrodites in UK and so many in Pak? Symptoms must be common in Pakistanis then haha!

What a lovely experience though - you gori women are always so outgoing and carefree! Lovely blog btw.

I have to say... read the Dancing Girls of Lahore by Louise Brown (order it on Amazon). Out of all things the woman wrote about the red-light district in Lahore (Heera Mandi) and it was such a stupid book - boring!! However, the book does give a great incite into the society issues and ethnic groups of Pakistan. I think of it like a reference book really lol!

luckyfatima said...

Yep I didn't like Dancing Girls of Lahore either just because Louise Brown wrote as if she really hated her subjects. I would recommend Fauzia Saeed's book "Taboo" instead. But I can't recall if she touches on hijray or not.

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